El otro día mi marido me sorprendió con una donación de camisetas. ¡Y ni siquiera tienen agujeros! Todavía no doy crédito (digamos que es algo apegado a su ropa vieja), así que por si acaso ha sido enajenación mental transitoria las he convertido rápidamente en "lana" para hacer una alfombra de ganchillo.
Si queréis hacerlo necesitareis camisetas de las que no tienen costuras laterales, regla y tijeras. Si teneis una superficie de corte con cuadrícula y una cuchilla circular mejor que mejor.
Lo primero que hay que hacer es estirarla bien y cortar la parte de arriba y el remate inferior:
Y ahora empezamos a cortar. Como mi... ¿almohadilla, tabla? de corte viene en pulgadas, yo hago las tiras de una pulgada, que son unos 2.5cm. Con esta medida sale una "lana" gordita pero manejable (uso un ganchillo de 12mm); las he hecho también de 1.5 pulgadas, que son 3.81cm y para mi gusto sale demasiado gorda.
Cortamos desde el extremo que hemos doblado, hacia esos 5cm que hemos dejado sin superponer las dos capas. Al usar el cortador giratorio siempre se pasa uno un poco, pero no tiene importancia.
Para hacer una hebra continua, vamos a cortar en espiral, como si dijéramos. Lo más fácil es ponerse la camiseta (o lo que queda de ella) en un brazo e ir cortando con las tijeras. Empezamos en un extremo, haciendo una diagonal hacia el primer corte, hasta cortarlo del todo.
Continuamos cortando en diagonal siempre, curvando un poco el corte para que no queden "picos" hasta llegar al final.
Y nos encontraremos con esto en el suelo:
Ahora hay que tomar un extremo con una mano, y con la otra coger la tira a unos 60/70 cm (da un poco igual, lo que sea cómodo) y dar un tirón. Al hacer esto la tela se curva hacia dentro (por eso no importa que la camiseta tenga dibujo, la "lana" es un tubo con el revés de la tela hacia fuera) y "crece". Ya no queda más que ir estirando por secciones hasta quedarnos con esto:
I've been into twisted stitches lately and I realized that there are quite a few different ways to make them. Here is how I like to make a right twist from the wrong side (the stitch will be twisted to the right on the right side but you will make it on a wrong side row).
I have been addicted to Pinterest lately... Just getting rid of the million links in my browser's favorites and cataloguing them visually has kept me busy, but of course I have repinned another million links.
One of them was this cute memory game made with jenga pieces. And last week I decided to get to work, since a friend of my big boy was turning 4. I was digging in my paper drawer in hopes of finding some cute origami paper, when the stack of security envelopes started screaming at me. Pick us! Pick us! So naturally I did. And I was surprised at the fact that I actually had plenty of patterns to choose from, about 15 different ones in that drawer...
I was disappointed that the jenga game languishing on the top shelf was painted, I had natural wood in my mind; but I think the red and blue combo worked out nicely in the end.
It was easy to make. I used what I had on hand:
One would normally use Mod Podge or other decoupage medium for this kind of job, but I find that undiluted white glue dries to a nicer, more even finish. And it doesn't stink. But it's not waterproof... just so you know.
1. Cut a 3/4" strip of each envelope, then cut it into two 2 3/4" pieces. You will have 16 pieces, two of each pattern.
2. Apply a generous coat of (undiluted) white glue to one of the large sides of a jenga piece; even it out with a brush. Apply a piece of paper and brush it with a clean brush to flatten it. Make sure all the corners and edges are neatly attached.
3. Apply another generous coat of glue over the paper. Brush it on and don't mess with it any more. It may look like a lot, and once it starts to dry it will look very uneven, but it will be OK. Just don't touch it.
4. Let it dry. Completely. Don't mess with it. You could be done at this point; if you notice that the glue shows too much on the sides of the piece, sand it with a fine nail file. If you want to go all out, you can coat all the other sides with glue as well.
I have been addicted to Pinterest lately... Just getting rid of the million links in my browser's favorites and cataloguing them visually has kept me busy, but of course I have repinned another million links.One of them was this cute memory game made with jenga pieces. And this week I decided to get to work, since a friend of my big boy is turning 4 tomorrow. I was digging in my
Bonnets with a star crown are not as difficult to make as they may seem. All you really need to know is how to do a yarn-over and knit two together. In this tutorial you will find a general method to construct the crown and complete the bonnet; at the end you will find a row-by-row pattern for a 7-point-star which might be easier to follow if it is the first time you make this type of crown. Once you have made one star, you will find it easier to modify the size by simply adding or subtracting stitches at the widest point of the star’s points (which will also modify the number of rows you will need to knit in order to close the tips, thus making them longer or shorter).
It is a back-and-forth method, I only use circular needles to take advantage of the flexible cable when it comes to show the round shape in the pictures, but it can be knit on straights.
When you click on the pictures a window will pop-up with a larger version.
The bonnet is started from the center crown and finished with a seam along one of the star’s arms, from the center to the neck. The star is knit in three steps:
1. Increase stitches in each point until the desired width is reached.
2. Decrease stitches in each point until the tips of the star are closed, while simultaneously increasing the space between the points.
3. Bind-off a certain number of stitches on the back neck.
To start, decide on how many points you want your star to have, and cast-on the same number of stitches plus one. For the sample I’making a 7-point star, so I’m casting-on 8 sts. Leave a long enough tail to make the seam later.
From now on, we are going to increase one stitch per point on each right-side row (first step). For the first row, knit-one stitch and do a yarn-over to the last stitch, knit that last stitch. You will end with twice as many stitches as points, plus one (15sts for a 7-point star).
All wrong-side rows are purled.
Continue to increase. On the next row you knit 2 and do a yarn-over all the way to the last stitch which is knitted. Next right-side row will be knit 3, yarn-over; then knit 4, yarn-over… and so on and so forth until the points are as wide as you want them.
On the picture below you can see how it looks. Note that each yarn-over is placed right after the yarn-over on the row below.
Once the points are wide enough, we start to separate them (second step, for the example this is row 15). In order to do this, you will increase twice and decrease only once per point on each right-side row.
Start by knitting all stitches to the two stitches immediately before the yarn-over (the sample has 7 stitches between yarn-overs, therefore we have to knit 5). Knit those two stitches together, do a yarn-over, knit one, yarn-over again. Repeat to last stitch, knit one. The picture below shows how the first two increases are placed on either side of the yarn-overs on the row below.
The next few rows will be exactly the same, except that there will be more stitches between the yarn-overs and less stitches before the knit-two-together decrease. On the first row of the second step we did k5, k2tog; on the third row we will do k4, k2tog; then k3, k2tog… until the row starts with the k2tog. This will be the last row of this step and the tips of the star will be completed.
At the same time, there will be more and more stitches in between the yarn-overs. On the first row of the second step there was just one stitch; on the next one (on the right side) there will be 3, then 5, then 7 and so on and so forth. The picture below shows how a triangle starts to form in between the yarn-overs.
When there are only two stitches before the first yarn-over, you will be at the end of step two. Knit those two stitches together, do a yarn-over, knit all the stitches in the triangle (between yarn-overs) including the yarn-over from the row below, and do another yarn-over. Repeat to last stitch and knit one.
Now you just need to bind-off the back neck sts (third step). To do this you need to purl the wrong-side row first. Then you need to calculate how many sts you need to bind-off at the beginning of the next row (right-side). To do this, I count how many sts there are between the yarn-overs (the sts that form the base of the triangle).
In the sample there are 11 stitches, we divide by two and round up (or down, your choice). For the sample we get 5.5 and round up to 6. So we bind-off 6 sts (or whatever number you get for your particular sample). Below you can see the bound-off sts, the stitch left on the needle was knit in order to bind-off the sixth st, but it is the first stitch of the row (if you are going to use a lacy or otherwise repetitive stitch you need to take this into account).
At the beginning of the next row (wrong-side) you will need to bind off the same number of sts and finish the row by purling every stitch (or using whatever stitch you want for the body of the bonnet). Below you can see the finished star with the bound-off sts on either side.
Now you just need to continue knitting the body of the bonnet until it is deep enough and bind-off all sts (these will be the stitches that “frame” the face). To finish, use the tail from the cast-on to sew the seam along the back. Once the seam is done, pick up enough sts along the bottom of the bonnet and knit a few rows to make a garter stitch neckband (of course you can use other stitch).
To make a 7-point star
Repeat the instructions between stars to the last stitch, which is always knitted.
Cast-on 8 sts.
1st row: *k1, yo*k1
2nd row and all wrong-side rows: purl all sts (unless otherwise indicated)
3rd row: *k2, yo* k1
5th row: *k3, yo* k1
7th row: *k4, yo* k1
9th row: *k5, yo* k1
11th row: *k6, yo* k1
13th row: *k7, yo* k1
(you have completed the first step, now you are going to make each point narrower while increasing the space between points).
15th row: *k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo* k1
17th row: *k4, k2tog, yo, k3, yo* k1
19th row: *k3, k2tog, yo, k5, yo* k1
21st row: *k2, k2tog, yo, k7, yo* k1
23rd row: *k1, k2tog, yo, k9, yo* k1
25th row: *k2tog, yo, k11, yo* k1
(you have completed the second step, now you just need to bind-off the back neck sts)
27th row: bind-off 6sts, knit the rest (or start whatever kind of pattern you want to use)
28th row (wron-side): bind-off 6sts, purl the rest (or whatever kind of pattern you’ll use for the body of the bonnet)
Sew two ribbons on the edges of the neck band.
I don't tend to bind-off too tightly, but I often need a stretchy but not loose way to cast-off the stitches of my bonnets, since they are meant to go around the face. They need a little stretch, but not as much as if it were the elastic edge of a top-down hat.
So this is what I do:
Easy and fast!
El punto de malta es muy común en los patrones para bebés, pero las instrucciones suelen dejar mucho que desear. La primera vez que lo intenté me las ví y me las deseé para entenderlas, y al final buscando, buscando encontré un vídeo explicando como hacer el punto peruano, que es casi igual, pero el calado queda menos definido.
Después de una semanita de aúpa, con todos malos en casa ("virus intestinal" lo llamaremos... os hacéis a la idea), primera semana de clases para mí y para Miguel (snif, snif, qué mayor se me hace) y dos días sin chica... hoy por fin recuperamos la normalidad y las fuerzas. Así que gracias al arte y la ayuda de mi cámara de cabecera aquí tenéis el tutorial prometido.
Espero que os sea útil. Si tenéis cualquier duda o si no carga bien dejadme un comentario en este post y procuraré solucionarlo.
Here's a video tutorial for "malta stitch"; it's only in Spanish because I don't think it's a popular stitch in the English speaking world. I have looked for it in all my stitch books and I can't find it anywhere, so I don't even know what it's called in English. But if anyone is interested in it, just leave me a comment on this post and I'll just do a voice over with the translation.